Heather and Doug Donahue Bring Their Love for Cows and the Organic Farming Tradition to Balfour Farm
Heather, did either you or Doug grow up on a farm?
Neither of us grew up on a farm. Doug’s family had a few chickens and raised a pig every year, but that was it. My family did not have pets.
Your farm in upper New York state was your first dairy farm. Did you make cheese and/or sell milk?
Our dairy farm in New York was a very traditional dairy farm. We sold our certified organic milk on the bulk market through a contract with Horizon Organic. We milked twice a day and the milk truck picked up our milk every other day. We started with 20 cows and grew to 50 milkers. This was a very common-sized farm in our area, and we had many neighbors that milked organic herds this size as well.
We dabbled in home yogurt and cheesemaking, but we didn’t start making cheese for a business until we moved to Maine. We were licensed through the state to sell raw milk, but the regulations and processes made it difficult to make this a significant part of our business.
Why the move to Maine?
We moved to Maine for several reasons. All of our family were still located in Maine and New Hampshire. We wanted to be closer to family and have a smaller farm. Being able to sell raw milk was difficult in the rural area we were located in New York. Maine had much more favorable laws for raw milk sales.
Heather, how did you learn to make cheese?
I have taken classes over the years, read books and researched online. I really like visiting with other cheesemakers to hear firsthand about their methods and successes. There is a lot of trial and error involved in developing the recipes and methods that work with our milk.
Can the same raw cow’s milk produce cheddar as well as gouda? Is the difference totally in the cheese-making process?
Yes. The cultures, time and handling (stirring, etc.) of the milk is what makes a particular cheese. Once the cheese is aged, different flavors can be developed from the same batch if various aging methods are used. Cheese can be aged in wax, as a natural rind, in a vacuum-sealed bag, or bandaged (coated with lard or butter and layers of cloth).
What breed were your first cows?
Our first cows were Scottish Highlands. We had 2-3 cows and a bull. We had a small herd of Black Angus before we started the dairy. Our first milking cow for home use was a Hereford x Holstein. Her name was Blackie. She was all black, with a white face and a black circle around one eye. She was part of our farm for about 14 years. Our first milking herd was Red and White Holsteins. We added the Normande cows about two years after starting the dairy. We moved to just Normande cows when we moved to Maine, with just a few that are minor % crosses with the Holsteins we started with.
Newbie at Balfour Farm.
Why did you choose Normande cows when you moved to Maine?
The Normande cows are great grazers—effectively converting grass into milk and do well in our low grain system. They have high butterfat and protein that makes great milk components for higher yields of cheese. Normande are excellent mothers and when it comes time to retire a cow, we have a quality beef product to sell.
Is there a difference between a cow and a milking cow?
Technically, you can milk any mammal, including cows. Milking breeds have been developed to tolerate handling, having good dispositions, ease of calving (having babies unassisted), and for milk production and quality.
At what age can a cow be milked?
Our goal is to have a cow start milking at 2.5 years old. The oldest cow we have milked was 17. They can milk into their 20’s.
Do cows have distinctive personalities?
Yes, they all have their own personalities—some are pushy and forward, others hang back. There is always one that takes charge and greets anyone who goes into the pasture—they are the curious one! The matrons usually lead the herd back to the barn and the heifers (young girls) are the last to follow.
Do you keep bulls on the property?
We keep a bull, or two, as we usually have one active and one young replacement. We also use AI (artificial insemination) to bring in new genetics to the herd as well. Doug does all of our breeding and runs the breeding program, chooses the bulls, and which cows are bred.
Doug and Beverly having one of their loving chats. Sadly, she is no longer with us. She was a favorite though, very gentle—a bit like Eeyore as a cow. She had a, "I suppose... I'll walk up to the barn," approach in the morning.
How do you and Doug split the chores between farm and business?
We currently have split the duties with Doug being responsible for the day to day managing of the farm (forage, cows, equipment), and I manage the business aspects and sales. Our Cheesemaker, Olivia, runs the cheese room with input from me for production needs. I work in the creamery fulfilling orders and making cheese on the weekends and when our Cheesemaker has time off. Doug and I do the marketing, attending farmers markets weekly year-round. I do all of the 2-3 day sales events and trade shows.
Head Cheesemaker Olivia, on the right, and Heather hooping curds before they go into the press.
Heather in the cave.
Doug, please take us through a normal farm day.
I get up at 6 and have my coffee. Our dog Moose and I go out to get the cows off the pasture. Moose is a chocolate lab. Really not a ‘cattle dog,’ but he tries to be helpful. We bring the cows up to the barn for milking. Once milking is finished, we go back to the field and open up a new pasture paddock. We turn the cows out and they find their way down to the new paddock. The rest of the day is spent cleaning up the barn, feeding, watering the pigs and chickens, gathering, washing, and packaging eggs.
In the summer, we work on putting up hay and may work until 9pm if the hay needs to be wrapped the same day. When we don’t have hay to do, we work on projects, maintain buildings and equipment, cut firewood, repair fencing, and make land improvements.
Saturday is market day year-round, and during the summers we also have a Wednesday market. We get up at 2:30am to pack the truck and get underway. We park by 5:30 and are set up to go by 7am. Market runs until 1pm. After packing up, we start home, and may make wholesale deliveries, and pick up supplies on the way. We usually finish unpacking the truck again around 5-6pm.
You classify yourselves as a ‘farm and farmstead creamery.’ What does ‘farmstead’ mean?
For us, farmstead means that the products begin on the farm, and are completely made on the farm from our own milk. Our milk goes into only our cheeses and we have the highest degree of control for the quality of our milk and the security of our own supply.
You describe the farm and products you sell now as ‘deliberately organic.’ Why is this distinction important for you?
We are very intentional about being organic and adhering to organic practices and values. We truly believe in working with the natural systems that have evolved over millennia and grazing cows is a huge part of that.
Was it difficult to get the cheese approved for USDA Organic Certification?
We are certified in three tiers: the farm land and the cows, the milk, and our final packaged products. Organic certification is a lot of work for record keeping. It adds several layers to traditional farm records. We have to be able to demonstrate to our inspectors that the ingredients, soaps, and other inputs are all certified organic as well. With the introduction of FSMA (Food Safety Modernization Act), we now have the added responsibility of traceability for our products all the way from the ingredients used to the customers purchasing the products.
How has Maine Farmland Trust helped you?
We have worked with Maine Farmland Trust in several ways. Participating in their business development programs has helped our farm grow and improve our financial management. We were also able to obtain support funding for key equipment through their business development programs. In 2014, we secured a purchased farmland preservation easement so our farm is now a ‘Forever Farm.’ The funds received were invested in utility upgrades that were needed to be able to safely operate more creamery processing equipment at the time.
Further securing your farm and products … Tell us about “the West Pittsfield Power Plant.”
We operate our farm off the grid with solar panels as our primary source of power. We have a battery bank for power storage and our generator is back up in periods of high demand (like during milking and extended rainy spells). Our generator is 40kW, which is quite sizable. We affectionately refer to it as the ‘West Pittsfield Power Plant’ since it could run several households.
Heather, what are the greatest joys of running the business?
We try to be self-sufficient in our feed, having a closed herd (we haven’t bought a cow since 2007!), and providing our own power. We lean on professionals when we need to for accounting and business advice. We have taken on some large projects in the past few years (aside from establishing two separate farms and moving our farm twice). Planning the projects and pulling all the parts of the plan together to fruition is very satisfying.
Doug, for you, what are the greatest joys of dairy farming?
Working with the cows—improving our yield each year and watching the young stock grow to be milkers. And then of course, there are tractors. I really enjoy putting up our own hay and forage.
Where can people buy your aged, fresh and smoked cheeses, and Non-GMO fed salami products?
Our products are available year round at our weekly Portland Maine Farmers market booth. We have an extensive list on our website (balfourfarm.com) for retailers that purchase products directly from us. We also work with a couple of New England based distributors, which get our products into Vermont, New Hampshire, and Massachusetts.
Applewood Smoked Cheddar
English-style cheddar cheese
Sharp and smooth
Field Day
English-style cheddar cheese
Sharp and smooth
Balfour Farm's Salami Family.
Day Break Gouda
Maine-style gouda cheese
Buttery and creamy